ciento volando

travel, stories, and other flights of fancy


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To: People on the old mailing list
Subject: Peru and Bolovia (but mostly Peru)
From: jean

Hola a todos! I hope you are all well :-)
I´m currently in La Paz, killing time, the tour’s over and I fly to Rio tomorrow morning! Goodbye altitude, hello sunny beaches!!

so…the tour…


  • won me over in the end! I had high expectations after beautiful Ecuador, and wasn´t immediately taken with the dry and desolate north west, but as we moved further south into the highlands it became more and more STUNNING.
  • despite being so dry and desolate (which i suppose is the point of being a desert), the deserts were quite spectacular. they looked like the scenery from star wars minus jawas
  • the food was not exactly decadent, but often quirky! any type of stuffed pastie/empanada/mystery roadside treat would be sure to contain 1 black olive and 1 bit of boiled egg
  • my favourite meal was “Choclo”, giant white corn on the cob, with kernels three times the size of our inferior yellow corn!
  • most of the buildings are unfinished, missing stories and have huge wire spikes sticking out of the rooves (roofs? looks funny). this is because 1. the people run out of money 2. they leave room to build a second story for the next generation to live upstairs, and 3. if a building is technically still in construction, they only pay 10 % of the taxes. Apparently there is a building in central Lima which has been ¨in construction¨ since the 17th century!
  • the ¨Peruvian hairless¨ dog is the ugliest creature Ihave ever seen
  • it was Fidel  Castro day when we were in Cuzco, and they were all marching around shouting ¨down with the Yankees¨. The Spanish accent makes it sound like ¨junkies¨, so i was confused (but glad to be neither american nor junkie)
  • being on The Gringo Trail, people were out to scam us wherever we went, trying to get in photos and then charge us for it (but i can spot the iPod headphones under ¨traditional dress¨a mile off!)
  • the locals aren’t crazy, but they are often foaming at the mouth! it took me a while to figure it was the bi-carb soda they use to masticate coca leaves.
  • we learned all about the coca culture, had coca leaf tea every morning in every hostel, and visited the Cuzco Coca Shop where they put coca to a thousand legitmate uses, and gave us a spiel along the lines of hemp vs marajuana. (though given the energetic, rattled brilliance of the guy giving the very emotive spiel, i´m guessing the parrallels aren´t really there…)
  • what else. we went in a little aeroplane over the Nazca lines, had some beach time, saw in-progress archealogical digs of a pre-Inca canniballistic culture, went to the catacombes under the San Francisco monastery, drank Pisco in Pisco and went to the distillery, i got lots of mosquito bites (i can only wear 80% DEET for so long mum), saw more colonial churches, went to the Colca Canyon (saw a Condor in flight and was awe-struck), saw some snow and walked around in it a bit, went to a big big club with palm trees inside it on NYE, went canoeing, had a homestay and cooked traditional quechua food and wore funny clothes, tried to learn some quechua before the homestay but it was the wrong dialect, went to the floating islands on lake Titicaca, and hiked the Inca Trail


was the absolute highlight of the trip. we were blessed with the weather, and even though it was wet season we only had one morning of light rain. the hike was pretty tough, mostly due to altitude and bad ¨physical condition¨ (from sitting on buses eating fried potatoes everyday). but the challenge was well worth it! by the time i got to Machu Picchu (after 4am wakeup) i was so exhausted and deliriously excited it was like wandering into a dream or back in time..


  • didn’t get to see as much of it as i had hoped (should probably have read my trip notes a bit closer). we had half and hour in Cochabamba for lunch, and only 2 full days in La Paz. so i´ve been filling in the gaps by reading my lonely planet cover to cover and also ¨Marching Powder¨, a fascinating account of life in San Pedro, Bolivia´s most infamous prison. I now feel qualified to say that Bolivia is an incredible country and you should all go there if you have the chance!
  • Anyway! despite Bolivia being the poorest nation (and probably the most corrupt) in South America, there’s something about the ¨vibe¨ that i love! perhaps its because its so remote – even though our hotels on the main tourist strip in the capital city, its nothing like Peru was, taking photos is frowned upon and not nearly as staged
  • The beer is served icy cold here with frosted glasses (after over a month of luke warm beverages in Peru and Ecuador i nearly cried with happiness)
  • we visited a ¨witches market¨ which was kind of like a Bolivian Diagon Alley, they sold lotions and potions and dehydrated llama foetuses and toads and pornographic pacha mama (earth mother) talismans and antique silverware from the old slave mines at Potosí.
  • there have been heaps of protests, flares, road blocks and crazy propaganda everywhere, against the (until recently) popular president Evo Morales (left leaning ex-coca farmer, very anti USA, ¨coca yes, cocaine no¨). He intends to make the presidential term life-long (does he want to be assasinated?). Theres a referendum on jan 24th, after which the real chaos starts…

oh yeah and THE GROUP

lots of doctors and nurses= HYPOCHONDRIACS!!! everyone kept getting sick and anytime someone so much as sneezed they´d get five different people offering them every kind of anti nausea/anti altitude/ antibiotic/ gastro stop/ wee bag/ sleeping pill they could get their little disinfected hands on! As the over the counter situation has been quite “liberal”, my personal opinion is that over medication was the root of all motion sickness, (just as hyper-sanitation is responsible for such feeble immune systems).
So yes, 36 days was a long time to be in the constant company of 15 strangers, mostly because i was out to enjoy myself but it seems that many of them were not. (if you plan to be in bed before midnight on new years eve- DONT BOTHER GOING OUT!!). there really were alot of whingers which kind of drove me insane, especially if you had to sit next to them on long bus trips and the batteries on their iPods had run out or whatever (look out the window!! there are llamas and mountains everywhere!!!). i honestly dont know why some of them even bothered to go on holidays

but fortunately they weren’t really all that bad, and i hung out mostly with a couple of exhaustingly cheerful and sporty girls from Kiama, and we did our best to overwhelm the others with our grating optimism! and my roommate for most of the trip was a really nice irish chic, who talks more than anyone i have ever met in my life, and who i still can’t figure out. she´s engaged to a peruvian guy she met doing volunteer english teaching, and shes moving to Ghana next year to do more volunteer work as a ¨human rights educator¨, is absolutely determined to live and work in third world countries but is an absolute princess!! wakes up at stupid-o-clock every morning to wash and blow dry her hair, do her make up, curl her eyelashes, and has more luggage than anyone else on the tour. but she made me laugh lots so i wish her all the best!!


now i have written probably too many Bolivianos worth of travel notes (trying to use up coins i cant exchange but think i broke the next note dammit!) so goodbye amigos! hasta proxima vez…

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx jean

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