ciento volando

travel, stories, and other flights of fancy

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To: People on the old mailing list
Subject: you guessed it, BRAZIL and ARGENTINA (plus a wee bit on Uruguay)
From: jean

The continued adventures of Bec and Jean (rain goddess and dog whisperer, respectively)

we went to Brazil, it was nice for a bit, and then it rained, and rained, and rained.
which is about all i remember to begin with, though if i concentrate really hard i remember that other stuff happened too…

BRAZIL: was (probably still is) absolutely HUGE. we only spent a week in Rio, and then took a bus down to the Iguazu falls. so there is a lot lot more to see – must. go. back.
carnival. another year maybe.


  • we stayed in Santa Teresa, an old grey suburb with lots of winding cobblestone streets and big houses with high fences and intricate facades.
  • we saw the big jesus but it was super foggy so the view wasn’t great, but all the more surreal, the rain made it look like like jesus was crying
  • there was a bar in our hostel, and Dippy the Indian/American bartender (curently fleeing an arranged marriage, at large in Rio!) made the most amazing capirinhas (and often forgot to put them on the tab)
  • there were also bongos. bongos + capirinhas + other hippy vices + tedious lack of talent= serious exercise in patience. Especially when its breakfast time, especially when you have a hangover.
  • I saw some very very cool graffitti, but was always too scared to take my camera out to capture it. there was also a ridiculous amount of tagging, everywhere, all over big old buildings and statues, sad.
  • Portuguese is NOTHING like Spanish. it is indecipherable gibberish, that sounds like the bastard child of Italian and German, with weird nasal intonations. i had to resort to flapping my arms to order chicken. apparently the word is “frango”. so not a romance language.
  • the beaches were beautiful, and the people on the beaches were either beautiful or eccentric. the cast of Baz Lurhman’s Romeo and Juliet would fit in nicely.
  • wearing nothing but budgie smugglers to the supermarket? big fat hairy man belly? completely normal.
  • it is very fashionable to show off your tan lines, providing they are very very precise. There were a number of black girls walking round the city, sporting spaghetti thin tan lines which suggested that by some streak of ultraviolet they were actually white, once. Bec and i attempted the same reverse Michael Jackson trick but apparently it’s an artform that gringos are not very adept at. we remained a pale shade of tartan.
  • we went to a Carnival rehearsal which was heaps of fun, thousands of locals turn up because they can’t afford the real deal, it was bucketing rain but everyone sat around getting drenched and drunk and cheering on the biggest band i have ever seen in my life, it took about an hour for one band to march/dance past!
  • we met a lovely American couple from Melbourne, Florida. (i never knew there was another Melbourne!)
  • rode a motorbike to the top of a favela; apparently it was a race, and my guy won. it was my first time on a motorbike, and i was hugging my stranger for dear life
  • street party=insane fun.
  • we ate pirahna soup. it tasted like fish soup.



  • biggest waterfalls ever!! did heaps of walks, went for a paddle at the bottom (away from the scary bit), ooh-ed and ahh-ed and took many photos (and some rather amateur zoomy videos that give you motion sickness).
  • couldn’t afford “grand nautical adventure”, rafting not my thang anyway.
  • the main bit was “the devil´s throat”, a collection of falls surrounded by seemingly tranquil lakes and wetlands, which converge all of a sudden as though the bottom has fallen out and millions of tonnes of water come crashing down in one go. !!! !!!


Then we had the most laid back border crossing ever (compared to the crossing between Peru and Ecuador, where we passed some uncertain hours in was was certainly a military bunker). this time we just took a taxi


  • is a big producer of steak and red wine.
  • I have officially renounced all intents and desires of becoming vegetarian.
  • the serviettes in all the restaraunts are USELESS. they are little squares of grease-proof paper which only serve to smish around whatever mess further.
  • went on many 20+ hour bus journeys out and about the countryside – of varying degrees of comfort.
  • played bingo on one of the snazzier buses.
  • Lake district – looks like Switzerland! well i have actually never been to Switzerland but Bec has, and apparently this was just like Interlakin. there were cedar forests and chocolate and fondue shops and even a mock “Swiss Village”
  • the Argentines are all addicted to Mate, a very strong, smoky herbal tea which they drink out of ornate handleless cup-mug things, through metal straws which filter out the grassy pieces. everyone carries a thermos with them everywhere (even in sweltering heat) so they can constantly top up their Mate. it tasted okay, but it was weird drinking through a hot metal straw.
  • another Argentine obsession is “dulce de leche”, a sickening, caramelised sweetened condensed milk spread/filling/foodstuff (?). sounds like it should be my kind of thing, but it was way too sweet, i met my match, i couldn’t stand it. however as 50% of all bakery goods, chocolates and ice-cream flavours are some variety of dulce de leche, it made decision making a lot easier for me!
  • there were lots of dogs everywhere (especially in Bariloche, a town we stayed in in the Lake District), they were super friendly and clean and not at all like the peruvian hairless. many of them followed us around (a couple even tried to follow me into a cubicle, i had to be very assertive). our favourite was Banjo, he spend a whole day with us. we went bush walking, saw a waterfall and then had lunch together, it was really quite sad when he couldn’t come back with us on the bus
  • Buenos Aires has very deceptive pavement. lots of the square tiles look to be intact and then suddenly flip and splash filthy warm water all over your legs. just warning you
  • we stayed at Milhouse hostel, one of Buenos Aires most notorious “party hostels”. it was fun, the people were cool, there were always heaps of activities, and it was also next door to a porn cinema. so all the rooms on the left side could hear the most interesting sounds, wafting through the windows and vents, all night and all day…everywhere seemed to be playing Bob Marley. i will quite happily go the rest of my life without hearing buffalo soldier again.
  • in Mendoza Bec and i had a “fancy dinner” from hell. we´d been eating a lot of supermarket food, the time was nigh for a civilized meal, and we’d heard trout was a local specialty. we went all out and washed and wore dresses to quite a nice looking restaurant, and were expecting nothing short of decadence. half an hour after ordering we were told no trout, 20 mins later, no salmon either. desperate to somehow nail the craving, i ordered seafood stew. it was disgusting, and chewy. the worst part was that the salad bar was booby trapped and (thinking maybe it was corned beef) i accidentally ate tongue!!!
  • the Argentines are really into offal
  • and “jamon”. not like lovely cured spanish jamon, like dubious cheap supermarket ham that is always warm and has a funny smell and they put it in everything too.
  • we saw an amazing Tango show, it included a dance lesson beforehand and a three course meal and wine (lots). the show was unbelievable, it detailed the history of tango from when it was just danced by men in bars, and then prostitutes, up to some present day interpretations. it was cabaret style and the singers and narrator would come and sit down at the table with us, and there was a live band, and the food was the best meal we had and the dance lesson was, interesting!
  • there are board game bars!!! we need more of these in Melbourne!



  • well i have a stamp on my passport but i really only went on a day trip to Colonia (an old smugglers port and one of the oldest cities in South America). so i’ve not really seen a whole lot of Uruguay.
  • i slept through the bus tour (not my fault!! there were bedbugs in my hostel the previous night!) so have no idea what the CBD is like, or even if there is one.
  • the ferry was slow. but the seats were amazingly comfy and there was a live music performance (at 10am) with this chic singing Abba and Queen (she was actually head banging) to pre-recorded backing vocals. repeat phenomenon on return journey.
  • the water all the way from Buenos Aires to Uruguay (3 hr boat trip) was milky brown, i watched, it never went blue even for a bit. the locals assure me its not due to pollution (apparently it´s some kind of complicated geological phenomenon), but i’ve smelt the water in the port, and i’m not convinced.
  • because Uruguay was part of a big tug of war between the colonists, there are some excellent comparisons of both spanish and portuguese architecture side by side
  • spent the arvo walking around talking to a girl from Venezuela, so i learnt more about Venezuela and the Chavez regime than i did about Uruguay or Colonia.



  • Mr.Hugo, a jovial old Italian man who rented bikes (for winery tours) in Mendoza. at the end of the day when the tourists return the bikes, he turned up the music and gave us all unlimited free wine until late in the night. he pays off the bus drivers regularly to stop at his place and drop off/pick up tourists, and he had a menagerie of pets (including a parrot with a pommy accent), and children. Mrs.Hugo was equally delightful, rotund, and hospitable.
  • Mr.Tumnus! well, not really, but his name was Tomás, and he was the manager of one of the hostels. He looked so much like a fawn, all he ever wore were baggy brown fishermans pants, he had a fuzzy goatee and dreadlocks tied up on his head, and was always drinking Mate out of a stone cup. (I don’t think C.S.Lewis ever specified exactly what sort of tea fawns drink…)
  • Libby…the Hungarian theology student. everything about her was vague, dopey, irritating, but intriguing. she carried around a cactus which she’d uprooted somewhere, potted, and was planning to take home to her mum. her proposed tactic to get through customs was to put it in her hair (on ze side, like zis…) and pretend it was plastic. great idea, except for it being quite large, alive looking, and dirty.



I’m in Buenos Aires, still, staying in a really chilled hostel, doing not a whole lot. there’s always awesome music playing, they’ve got an astroturf backyard and a spiral staircase, the people are cool and i play chess with the owner most days (he beats me every time)(but its nice to use my brain again, try and stop it turning to marshmallow). we had a dinner party the other night, good times.
also been doing a lot of reading, sitting in cafes, walking round the city…my dream lifestyle, almost.
i leave in a couple of days (planning on booking a massage between now and then, if my schedule will allow it…)

then it’s back to Melbourne (via four flights including 21 hours stopover in LA, Ginnie please be there!!). arriving home next mon morning :-)

and then, unfortunately back to uni (i thought I’d finished but now they tell me i need one more subject. not happy jean).

HIGHLIGHTS (of whole trip)

  • Ecuador- the countryside, the people, the climate, the food, and the fact it’s not as touristy as Peru. if i was to go back and live for a bit in South America, Ecuador would be my number one pick!
  • Inca Trail
  • Iguazu falls
  • Tango show
  • Museo de Bellas Artes, Buenos Aires (I loved it so much i went there twice!)


the end

xx jean

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To: People on the old mailing list
Subject: Peru and Bolovia (but mostly Peru)
From: jean

Hola a todos! I hope you are all well :-)
I´m currently in La Paz, killing time, the tour’s over and I fly to Rio tomorrow morning! Goodbye altitude, hello sunny beaches!!

so…the tour…


  • won me over in the end! I had high expectations after beautiful Ecuador, and wasn´t immediately taken with the dry and desolate north west, but as we moved further south into the highlands it became more and more STUNNING.
  • despite being so dry and desolate (which i suppose is the point of being a desert), the deserts were quite spectacular. they looked like the scenery from star wars minus jawas
  • the food was not exactly decadent, but often quirky! any type of stuffed pastie/empanada/mystery roadside treat would be sure to contain 1 black olive and 1 bit of boiled egg
  • my favourite meal was “Choclo”, giant white corn on the cob, with kernels three times the size of our inferior yellow corn!
  • most of the buildings are unfinished, missing stories and have huge wire spikes sticking out of the rooves (roofs? looks funny). this is because 1. the people run out of money 2. they leave room to build a second story for the next generation to live upstairs, and 3. if a building is technically still in construction, they only pay 10 % of the taxes. Apparently there is a building in central Lima which has been ¨in construction¨ since the 17th century!
  • the ¨Peruvian hairless¨ dog is the ugliest creature Ihave ever seen
  • it was Fidel  Castro day when we were in Cuzco, and they were all marching around shouting ¨down with the Yankees¨. The Spanish accent makes it sound like ¨junkies¨, so i was confused (but glad to be neither american nor junkie)
  • being on The Gringo Trail, people were out to scam us wherever we went, trying to get in photos and then charge us for it (but i can spot the iPod headphones under ¨traditional dress¨a mile off!)
  • the locals aren’t crazy, but they are often foaming at the mouth! it took me a while to figure it was the bi-carb soda they use to masticate coca leaves.
  • we learned all about the coca culture, had coca leaf tea every morning in every hostel, and visited the Cuzco Coca Shop where they put coca to a thousand legitmate uses, and gave us a spiel along the lines of hemp vs marajuana. (though given the energetic, rattled brilliance of the guy giving the very emotive spiel, i´m guessing the parrallels aren´t really there…)
  • what else. we went in a little aeroplane over the Nazca lines, had some beach time, saw in-progress archealogical digs of a pre-Inca canniballistic culture, went to the catacombes under the San Francisco monastery, drank Pisco in Pisco and went to the distillery, i got lots of mosquito bites (i can only wear 80% DEET for so long mum), saw more colonial churches, went to the Colca Canyon (saw a Condor in flight and was awe-struck), saw some snow and walked around in it a bit, went to a big big club with palm trees inside it on NYE, went canoeing, had a homestay and cooked traditional quechua food and wore funny clothes, tried to learn some quechua before the homestay but it was the wrong dialect, went to the floating islands on lake Titicaca, and hiked the Inca Trail


was the absolute highlight of the trip. we were blessed with the weather, and even though it was wet season we only had one morning of light rain. the hike was pretty tough, mostly due to altitude and bad ¨physical condition¨ (from sitting on buses eating fried potatoes everyday). but the challenge was well worth it! by the time i got to Machu Picchu (after 4am wakeup) i was so exhausted and deliriously excited it was like wandering into a dream or back in time..


  • didn’t get to see as much of it as i had hoped (should probably have read my trip notes a bit closer). we had half and hour in Cochabamba for lunch, and only 2 full days in La Paz. so i´ve been filling in the gaps by reading my lonely planet cover to cover and also ¨Marching Powder¨, a fascinating account of life in San Pedro, Bolivia´s most infamous prison. I now feel qualified to say that Bolivia is an incredible country and you should all go there if you have the chance!
  • Anyway! despite Bolivia being the poorest nation (and probably the most corrupt) in South America, there’s something about the ¨vibe¨ that i love! perhaps its because its so remote – even though our hotels on the main tourist strip in the capital city, its nothing like Peru was, taking photos is frowned upon and not nearly as staged
  • The beer is served icy cold here with frosted glasses (after over a month of luke warm beverages in Peru and Ecuador i nearly cried with happiness)
  • we visited a ¨witches market¨ which was kind of like a Bolivian Diagon Alley, they sold lotions and potions and dehydrated llama foetuses and toads and pornographic pacha mama (earth mother) talismans and antique silverware from the old slave mines at Potosí.
  • there have been heaps of protests, flares, road blocks and crazy propaganda everywhere, against the (until recently) popular president Evo Morales (left leaning ex-coca farmer, very anti USA, ¨coca yes, cocaine no¨). He intends to make the presidential term life-long (does he want to be assasinated?). Theres a referendum on jan 24th, after which the real chaos starts…

oh yeah and THE GROUP

lots of doctors and nurses= HYPOCHONDRIACS!!! everyone kept getting sick and anytime someone so much as sneezed they´d get five different people offering them every kind of anti nausea/anti altitude/ antibiotic/ gastro stop/ wee bag/ sleeping pill they could get their little disinfected hands on! As the over the counter situation has been quite “liberal”, my personal opinion is that over medication was the root of all motion sickness, (just as hyper-sanitation is responsible for such feeble immune systems).
So yes, 36 days was a long time to be in the constant company of 15 strangers, mostly because i was out to enjoy myself but it seems that many of them were not. (if you plan to be in bed before midnight on new years eve- DONT BOTHER GOING OUT!!). there really were alot of whingers which kind of drove me insane, especially if you had to sit next to them on long bus trips and the batteries on their iPods had run out or whatever (look out the window!! there are llamas and mountains everywhere!!!). i honestly dont know why some of them even bothered to go on holidays

but fortunately they weren’t really all that bad, and i hung out mostly with a couple of exhaustingly cheerful and sporty girls from Kiama, and we did our best to overwhelm the others with our grating optimism! and my roommate for most of the trip was a really nice irish chic, who talks more than anyone i have ever met in my life, and who i still can’t figure out. she´s engaged to a peruvian guy she met doing volunteer english teaching, and shes moving to Ghana next year to do more volunteer work as a ¨human rights educator¨, is absolutely determined to live and work in third world countries but is an absolute princess!! wakes up at stupid-o-clock every morning to wash and blow dry her hair, do her make up, curl her eyelashes, and has more luggage than anyone else on the tour. but she made me laugh lots so i wish her all the best!!


now i have written probably too many Bolivianos worth of travel notes (trying to use up coins i cant exchange but think i broke the next note dammit!) so goodbye amigos! hasta proxima vez…

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx jean

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To: People on the old mailing list
Subject: ECUADOR
From: jean

hello everybody!!! its jean and she´s OVERSEAS

i’m writing a group email because its more economical and i am time poor and selfish, and postcards take 2 weeks to arrive and fit about three sentences on them.

I’ll try to be concise but in case you cant be bothered reading the lot, HAPPY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEARS AND BEST WISHES TO EVERYONE

MY TRIP: South America 9th Dec 2008 to 3rd March 2009
FLIGHT IN: Melbourne-Auckland-LA 15hrs-Panama-Quito. survived.
TOUR: (12th Dec to 16th Jan) Ecuador, Peru (including Inca Trail), Bolivia
AND THEN:17th Dec fly La Paz-Lima-Sao Paulo-Rio De Janiero. meet up with Bec D, spend approx 1 week in Rio
AND THEN: Make our way down to Argentina via Iguassu Falls. Our tour was cancelled so make it up
AND THEN: Arrive Buenos Aires early Feb. Spend time there and maybe take a week to go to Chile (Santiago and Valparaiso) and back. Bec D goes home 15th Feb
AND THEN: Chill out in Argentina until hometime
FLIGHT OUT: BA-Panama-LA 21hrs-Auckland-Melbourne!

MY TOUR GROUP is a lovely bunch. Consists of 14 people between 18-30, of which there are 4 doctors, 2 nurses, a med student, a nursing student, a physio student, and a ridiculous amount of first aid paraphanalia. We are therefore currently all in good health!
However we´re at a slight cultural deficit with one (1) music student, and a BIG language barrier. Other than our guide, only two of us speak ANY spanish, and a disappointing few are even attempting to learn the basics. We have four blondes, who are lovely people, but it screams “GRINGAS!!!” wherever we go (which screams alot louder than “Gringos”)
Fortunately everyone gets along and there are no noteable tensions, however i am finding the group dynamics a fascinating social experiment!!! 36 days is a long time, its already day 10-ish and i already feel i´ve been away for ages and have known these people forever.

we arrived in Peru yesterday. I am in Mancora, a desert beachside town which is very touristic. There is a stray cat sleeping above my computer and it is very very noisy and the keyboard is shite.
so mostly i have only seen Ecuador so far.


  • i already miss it!! it has beaches, mountains, and volcanos, and is mostly very lush and fertile and green
  • there is a lot of crazy fruit (and the most remarkable fruit juices), an abudance of fresh produce and everything is available pretty much all year round cos they don’t really have seasons
  • most meals (even steak) are accompanied by banana, fried or otherwise
  • if your meal is not served with banana, it will almost definitely come with avocado or kidney beans.
  • everyone pays (USD) cash for everything, but the change situation is ridiculous, there simply isn’t enough coin or change and every transaction is a struggle. notes above $20 are unusable and even a $5 bill is enough to make a storekeeper groan and have to run outside to swap money with people on the street.
  • despite the fact there is no change, you can still buy individual pills from the pharmacy or single cigarettes from a pack
  • the people are tiny and i am a giant!!
  • the bootblack trade is thriving- they are everywhere! i guess most people cant afford new shoes, but many have enough cash and pride to indulge in the upkeep of what they have
  • Early in the morning, everyone is out sweeping! inside, outside, shopfronts, the road, and all with really good brooms that seemed much more effective than stupid leaf blowers (that or the people working the brooms actually put in some effort).
  • The indigenous population is proud and healthy, even the very elderly are physically super strong and have jet black hair. The merging of cultures and religions seems to work, and Ecuador is fortunate because the land is so fertile. The indigenous also have a lot of political influence and are much better represented than in many countries.
  • There is still a big divide between rich and poor but apparently its getting better and the current president is a top bloke and not nearly as corrupt as the last bunch (12 in six years or something crazy like that), who were mostly helicoptered out and now live in mansions in the Caribbean…
  • Toilets are generally foul, you often have to pay to go and you can´t flush the toilet paper and it all sits in open bins. but what i find most disgusting is that people sell food inside grotty public toilets ew

Lots hiking, tubing down a river (got caught in whirlpool capsized bashed toe on rock not fun), went into the amazon, learnt indian cultural stuff like how to make chocolate from cacao and beer from yuca, long bike ride up down many hills on very dodgy bike, bungee jump swing thing over river, swam in waterfall, sat in thermal springs, lots time on bus, ate weird food, drank cheap cocktails, learnt salsa, went to many markets (animal one was crazy), saw lots of churches and colonial buildings etc.

i think that is all for the time being.

lots of love